Q2:  Why is the area of outstanding national importance due to its natural heritage or the combination of its natural and cultural heritage?   2,000 words allowed

Welcome to Scotland’s southern secret.  With its gloriously diverse and varied landscapes, mild climate and wide array of habitats, Galloway National Park is of outstanding international importance for both its natural capital assets and cultural heritage. From beaches, bogs and dunes to farmland, forests and fens, its ecology is remarkably diverse and special and among the most varied in Scotland. Just as unique is its cultural heritage, shaped largely as the result of our area’s geographical isolation from the rest of Scotland. For millennia, only a few arduous routes crossed the rugged hills and moors; this same landscape now offers the largest remaining wilderness south of the Highlands.

Natural Heritage

The Biodiversity Report describes 13 habitats, identifying their extent, the key species and the most important sites. Many habitats can be found close together. In a single 20 mile walk from Ravenshall Point to Cairnsmore of Fleet it is possible to pass through them all:

  • Beaches and dunes

  • Saltmarshes

  • Coastal cliffs

  • Rivers

  • Lochs and ponds

  • Reedbeds, marshes and swamps

  • Bogs and fens

  • Semi-natural grassland

  • Mountain and moorland

  • Native woodland

  • Plantations and forests

  • Farmland

  • Built habitats

The impact of land use change, both climate and human induced, means these habitats are under pressure like never before. If we don't collectively protect and enhance them now, they will be lost forever.

In addition to the UNESCO Biosphere, Galloway National Park is home to 98 important conservation designations which together have an area of over 400km2 after discounting overlaps:

  • 8 Ramsar sites

  • 4 Special Protection Areas

  • 13 Special Areas of Conservation

  • 72 Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs)

  • Cairnsmore of Fleet National Nature Reserve (NNR)

  • The largest Local Nature Reserve (LNR) in the UK at Wigtown Bay

  • 74 Local Wildlife Sites 

  • 25% of Scotland’s saltmarsh habitat

  • 200km of coastal cliff and slope

  • The largest sand dune system in southern Scotland

  • A minimum of 8,090 species recorded

  • All species of Scotland’s bats, native reptiles, and amphibians

  • Excellent bird diversity, including overwintering waders and wildfowl, Svalbard’s Barnacle Geese (of international importance) and nationally important numbers of Dunlin and Redshank

  • The greatest diversity of butterfly and moth species in Scotland

  • A mix of northern/highland and southern/lowland species, many at the edges of their ranges

  • The Galloway International Dark Sky Park, awarded a Gold Tier Park status for its breath-taking and rare stargazing conditions with over 7000 stars and planets visible with the naked eye. 

There are six main rivers in or on the boundary of the Galloway National Park area.  All are important for Atlantic Salmon, and the Cree hosts one of only three breeding populations of Sparling. Bladnoch is one of relatively few European protected sites for Atlantic Salmon in Scotland. 

Natural Heritage: Landscape

The Merrick (843m), one of only two “wild land” areas in Southern Scotland, dominates a wide and open landscape within the Merrick Kells SAC/SSSI.  There are extensive panoramas to Ireland, the Isle of Man and England from the hills and moors, with our glens, lower land and ancient woods having more intimate views. The full extent of the South of Scotland can be seen from the Rhinns of Kells. The Fleet Valley, East Stewartry Coast and Nith Estuary are National Scenic Areas and almost half the area has Regional Scenic Area status including parts of the Rhins, Machars, Mochrum Lochs, Galloway Hills and The Solway Coast.

There are numerous walks and Core Paths throughout, including many in the Forest Park and along the coast.  Galloway National Park is also home to three of Scotland’s Great Trails (SGTs): 

  • the Mull of Galloway Trail, now part of the Rhins of Galloway Coast Path

  • the southern part of the Ayrshire Coastal Path

  • the Southern Upland Way, which runs from Portpatrick to Eyemouth. 

This is paralleled by the Kirkpatrick C2C cycling route, and NC7 and NC73 cycle routes cross the area.  A Pilgrimage Route links Glasgow to Whithorn.

Natural Heritage: Geology and soils

Galloway’s current landforms owe much to dramatic violent collisions, volcanic events and erosion by ice and meltwater. The geology is mostly Ordovician and Silurian greywackes (known as whinstone). Our landscape is characterised by large granite intrusions, exposed notably at Merrick, Cairnsmore of Fleet and Criffel.  Glacial action has resulted in stony, loamy drift over the hills, clay tills in the valleys (often associated with drumlin fields) and thin more locally developed endemic soils on the peninsulas, some with rocky knowes.  There are 23 Geological Conservation Review Sites, with an area of 11,800 hectares.  Most overlap SSSIs, and 1,738 ha are protected for their geology alone.

High rainfall and impeded drainage have encouraged the formation of peat, to be found as blanket bog, heather moor, marsh, raised bogs, and peat rich soil across about a third of the nominated area.  The WISE Peatland Choices, published by the James Hutton Institute, shows that Galloway has the largest area of deep peats in southern Scotland with a high probability that it can be restored and conserved. This potentially has an important role to play in carbon sequestration if better managed but currently less than 10% of this peat is now associated with its typical habitat, and much of it is forested.  Saltmarsh is comparable with peat in storing carbon, and we have 25% of Scotland’s remaining area, with plans to extend it.  

Natural Heritage: The Coast and Sea

This bid does not extend beyond the tideline, but the Galloway coast is exceptional for its landscape and biodiversity. The Solway Firth is the least intensively developed major estuary in Scotland (indeed, in the UK) with an exceptionally high tidal range. Its importance for delivering against climate change targets and biodiversity goals is highlighted by the Borderlands Inclusive Growth Deal Natural Capital Programme, which is working on opportunities to enhance native oysters, saltmarsh and seagrass, led by the Solway Firth Partnership.  Luce Bay SAC is designated for its marine assemblages and further offshore the Clyde Sill MPA extends NE from the North Rhins.  Whilst the current proposal for the Galloway National Park does not include the marine environment, the UNESCO Biosphere’s recent expansion into inshore waters provides an opportunity to take this forward.

Cultural Heritage

Our region’s historic role as a cultural crossroads was shaped by sea-borne connections around the Irish Sea and beyond and the development of a unique linguistic diversity reflecting varying political and economic alignments over millennia. Galloway is home to thousands of designated sites including:

  • 1,506 Listed Buildings, of which 78 are Category A

  • 614 Scheduled Ancient Monuments

  • Approximately as many again identified in a Supplementary Planning Guidance document (2017) which includes a map of Nationally Important Archaeological Sites as yet unscheduled. 

  • 13 Designed Landscapes on the Historic Environment Scotland (HES) register, with many further renowned gardens open to the public

  • 21 Conservation Areas

  • The site at which Robert the Bruce defeated the English in battle at Glen Trool in 1307. 

Our report on Cultural Heritage explains the development of Galloway since the Neolithic period. Evidence of our ancient ancestors includes chambered tombs, stone circles and standing stones, as well as many cup and ring marked rocks which date from the Bronze Age. Western Galloway and Southern Ayrshire have 12 Bargrennan type cairns, a unique class of prehistoric chambered cairns not found anywhere else.  Cairn Holy is an example of the Clyde type chambered cairn. The coast has the largest concentration of Iron Age forts in the country, as well as less common constructions such as brochs and duns.  The Romans built four camps during their short occupation.  In the early medieval period, the Kingdom of Rheged spanned northern Britain including Galloway. Later, it became part of Northumbria emphasising its links along the Solway.  A recent find from the Viking Age is the astounding Galloway Hoard. 

The need for security was a significant factor for our ancestors.  Galloway has the highest concentration of surviving C12th timber castle mounds and mottes in Scotland.  Many Tower Houses were built for security on account of local feuds, mainly in the C15th.   More recent legacies are the Cable House for the first Scotland/Ireland telegraph connection of 1853, and, from WWII, the development work on the D-Day Mulberry Harbours.

Religion was another major influence. Legend has it that St Martin came to Whithorn in 397CE and, soon after, St. Ninian built the priory, establishing Whithorn as a very important religious centre.  It is now a major pilgrimage site, with a museum exhibiting notable stone crosses. Abbeys and monasteries were built at Dundrennan (where Mary Queen of Scots spent her last night in Scotland), New Abbey and Glenluce.  Covenanters were strong in Galloway.  Martyrs’ Memorials are found across the area, including two at Wigtown that mark the death by drowning of Margaret McClaughlin and Margaret Wilson and the deaths of three others in 1685. 

Agriculture remains a significant feature in the landscape.  From the earliest times of human settlement, the greatest concentration is north of Glenapp where field systems, farmsteads, hut circles and other remains are found.   More recent changes to the land arose from the Clearances, which were significant in Galloway and strongly resisted.  Levellers were active across Galloway, eventually suppressed only with military assistance.  The resulting characteristic dykes are now a prominent part of the Galloway landscape. 

Increasing knowledge and scientific advances allowed other industries to develop in Galloway. Mills were built on many rivers, with Royal Burghs established and acting as centres of trade to promote manufacturing.  The many harbours - six of which are still operating - provided a way for Galloway to export its products and import essentials such as coal and lime.  Planned settlements, such as Gatehouse of Fleet, were built in the C18th.  Strong and attractive vernacular rural architecture survives in some of Scotland’s most attractive villages.

Our designed landscapes and gardens are spectacular, exemplified by Logan Botanic Garden, unrivalled as the country’s most exotic garden.  The presence of the Gulf Stream is a major factor in our area having 12 Designed Landscapes and Gardens, amongst them Craigengillan, Galloway House, and Castle Kennedy.

Cultural Heritage: Literature and Art

Whilst Robert Burns is mainly associated with Ayrshire and Dumfries, he visited and knew the area well, as one of a wealth of creative people inspired by Galloway.  The area features in many classic novels and modern fiction, with strong associations with Gavin Maxwell (born at Elrig), S.R.Crockett, John Buchan, Dorothy Sayers, and John McNellie.  Our literary connections are celebrated at the Wigtown Book Festival  (established 1998); growing significantly in prestige to become one of the UK’s best-loved events due to the drive and tenacity of its communities, leading to recognition as Scotland’s National Book Town.

Our region has also long exerted a magnetic pull over visual artists due to the quality of the light and the landscape, creating a unique cultural identity for the region. From the late 19th century onwards, Kirkcudbright is the longest surviving artists’ colony, with the Glasgow Boys and the Scottish Colourists movements. Its wildlife and landscape continue to provide inspiration to an exciting and vibrant creative community. The superb Kirkcudbright Galleries is a showcase of Scottish art, both with the permanent display of local artists and its visiting exhibitions. The nationally recognised Spring Fling event showcases this talent across the region and attracts repeat visitors from across the UK and beyond. Galloway is also an increasingly important film location, such as for the cult 1973 film The Wicker Man.